But in the end what is the actual interest of the vintage?
For smaller budgets, the vintage is the way to obtain parts of rare quality, which could never be obtained. A young girl on China province of antiques can find a well cut coat 1960s, a ready-to-wear of time very well. It will invest 100 euros, while in the retail sector, it would have had, at that price, a “crap”. The quality is really different. There is also a treasure side in vintage clothing: this is not a piece that will go out of style seen at the base, it is no longer fashionable! A vintage creation quickly takes a place of “basic” in a wardrobe: if you buy a 3-hole dress like Jackie Kennedy, it can be highlighted every year by changing his shoes, accessories. And then, people cling to the past, it reassures them!
Among the creations that you have acquired, which is the subject of your proudest achievement?
I think that would be the draped dresses of Madame Grès. I dedicated an exhibition to her dresses from 1950 to 1980. I found it exciting to see how the style of a designer can evolve. His style was truly unique.
On the sidelines of your vintage business, you launched your own label. Why ?
It was the natural evolution of my craft. Besides I like to do new things. In 1996, I organized an exhibition on the little black dress for which was reissued dresses. It was a concept that belonged to me so I thought it was worthwhile to expand. In 1999 we have launched the first collection of the brand “Didier Ludot Palais Royal in Paris.” Part-cons, I did not want to lose me in making suits, coats. He needed something stronger, to have a specialty shop in one garment. The little black dress lent itself perfectly. It is now distributed in New York, Milan or Tokyo, in some upmarket boutiques, luxury specialists.
Why did the little black dress, the centerpiece of your label?
Just because he had to restrict some ?? When I go to a wardrobe to collect coins, I always have a customer to tell me “Oh no! That’s my little black dress, I do not want to part with it.” The little black dress is a treasure, there is a real attachment to this piece in many women. In addition it is a garment that covers all ages, all social classes. It relates moreover both men and women because men always have the memory of an actress who made them fantasize in a movie, their mother when they were young, a woman they loved. In short, everyone is concerned. And of course, the little black dress is the epitome of Parisian chic ??
Your models are based on very classic creations. Why did you choose this sobriety?
They are inspired dresses 50, couture of that time. For me, they are nothing classic! And then there are finishes made hands, lace linings, satin bows. Our creations have a certain sophistication that do not currently. We obviously still influenced by what they sell and in that time, the trend is to the 1950s it does not remain fixed during this period: the collection can completely change from one season to another. We made each year 13 dresses, a coat and a bolero for cut dresses and that’s fine. This allows us to move easily.
What are your upcoming projects?
Exhibitions, firstly because that’s what’s fun. I now put up a Balenciaga exhibition to be held throughout the month of July. It will be like the Balenciaga exhibition of the Rue de Rivoli for which I paid a few coins. I thought that exposing the Royal Palace would be a good way to extend the walk. I also am about to do an exhibition in Moscow on the little vintage dress (see http://vintageinconfidential.com/): we will present our collections while making a retrospective of the years 1926 to the present. There will also be an exhibition dedicated to 20 years of Christian Lacroix, next year, in a provincial museum …
To organize exhibitions is something that really matters to you?
Yes because I have a great personal collection and exhibitions are the only way to show it. For now, the creations are in store and no advantage in. It should not be far from the 1000 or 1200 parts stores and for my private collection, I’m not sure but I have to be 5000 models. The exhibitions are an opportunity to rediscover the pieces, it’s always nice. Besides I can make an exhibition about anything …