Midway between Christmas and new year’s dinner, we take a small detour to the British Isles. A trend that has become increasingly stronger is that the venerable skrädderierna at Savile Row begins to venture into the segment of the top clothing. A market with a far lower arbetskostad and larger economies of scale. Today we look closer at überbrittiska Huntsman who then a few seasons back offers ready-made underlay of the highest quality.
Of course, one can discuss how far a skrädderis philosophy that each garment must be produced after their carrier, goes hand in hand with to produce the costumes in the existing sizes. At the same time, you can turn it around; Those who are seeking the experience of a tailored suit will surely continue to prefer the service but there is a growing clientele who appreciate skrädderiets aesthetics but do not feel they have the time, advice or need to get it tailored itself. So long as the quality is high on both materials that construct can be a great way for these tailors to survive when the market and margins for tailor-made is clearly smaller.
Huntsman’s collection for fall and winter inspired by London. More specifically, the districts of Mayfair and St. Jame’s in the 1940s. Huntsman has dug into its archives and developed lots of vintage clothing from the period in the form of pattern, color and texture. Model for the collection include Jack Guinness.
The cut is as usual from Huntsman hard tailoring with marked shoulders, hourglass-shaped silhouette and high armholes. Jacket length is longer than the current trend and trouser waists higher. At the same time, their wear something more contemporary in its cuts than the company’s bespoke.
The collection is part of the Archive Collections which was founded last year and the aim is to retain the feel and the legacy of the tailor’s workshop dating back to 1849.
The price level will vary of course depending on the fabric and materials but a suit is ballpark around 2 500 pounds and Blazer around 2,000 pounds, which is about half the price for the company’s bespoke but still in the premium segment for wear. The collection is available for purchase in the company’s store on Savile Row or via their online shop.